Office of Building Permits and Inspections
Misc. Notes for Residential Construction
The following information has been
observed through several years of inspections as the most common problem areas
in residential construction but a few items apply to commercial construction
as well. The list is not all-inclusive. For further information consult the
2003
edition of the International
Residential Code and the 2003 edition of the International Building Code.
- When calling to schedule an inspection
do not call the inspectors in the field but
call the office, with the Permit Number, between 8:30 am and 4:30 pm.
- The Building Permit Card must
be posted on the job site so that it can be found.
Failure to do so will create communication problems. The Inspector needs a
centralized location to leave inspection stickers and/or Correction Notices.
- Due to the volume of inspections
any calls for inspection needs to be made a minimum 24 hours in advance. We
cannot set a specific time for an inspection we can only give an approximation
as to whether it will be a.m. or p.m. During times of inclement weather some
footer inspections may be scheduled on a last minute basis.
- Plans must be available on the
job site for inspectors to review and will need to be there from the Footer
through to the Final inspections. These plans must match the house as built
as well as match the plans left at the office. Subsequent changes to plans
during construction shall require review by the Permits Office.
- FOOTERS: This inspection is to
be made prior to pouring of any concrete. Minimum depth from the bottom of
the footer to the finish grade will be no less than 36". Thickness is
usually 8" or more with an absolute min. of 6". Width is usually
twice the width of the block size being used (16", 20" or 24")
with an absolute minimum of 4" wider than the masonry or concrete placed
on top of the footer. Final size will depend on soil type and number of stories
to be carried. Steps, sometimes called jumps, in the footer will be formed
and poured level and plumb. The vertical portion of these steps (jumps) shall
meet the same width and thickness requirements. Footers shall be continuous
around the perimeter of each level of the foundation. Steps (jumps) should
be kept as short as practical, preferably no more than 48" in height.
All grade pins and bulkheads need to be installed. Loose fill, topsoil, roots
or other vegetation shall be removed before concrete is poured. If a thickened
slab is to be used under load carrying walls this area will need to meet the
same requirements as the rest of the footings as to width and thickness. Pouring
of concrete during times of inclement weather will require protection from
the elements. No concrete shall be poured on frozen ground. (See additional
info: Pouring Concrete in Cold Weather)
- FOUNDATIONS: All bed and head
joints in masonry walls shall be filled as the masonry is laid. DO NOT try
to fill them later with parging. Foundation coating as well as parging must
go from the finish grade all the way down to the footer. It is recommended
that a slight cove be formed at the junction of the wall and footer. Do not
apply foundation coating directly to the block unless approved by the manufacturer
for this method. To determine if and when core pouring and/or rebar will be
needed consult with the Building Permits Office or the Building Inspectors.
As a rule of thumb, dividing the block width by two will give you the maximum
height of backfill that can be placed without the need for core pouring and/or
rebar. Typically a maximum 4 ft of backfill would be placed against 8"
block, 5 ft for 10" block and 6 ft for 12" block. The final height
of the wall and final height of the backfill will determine the spacing for
any core filling and the size and number of rebar. Anchor bolts, minimum 1/2"
diameter, shall be placed a maximum of 6' on center and within 12" of
the corners. Anchor straps traditionally require a closer spacing and usually
require that holes be drilled through the sill plate the same as anchor bolts.
Anchor straps shall be installed per mfr installation instructions. French
Drain shall also be installed prior to inspection. Do not backfill or begin
framing until the Foundation has passed inspection. (See additional info:
Masonry Construction in Cold Weather)
- FRAMING: The biggest single continual
problem in framing is the lack of nails in OSB or plywood sheathing on walls,
floors and roofs. Maximum nail spacing per Code is 6" on center on all
supported edges and 12" on center throughout the rest of the sheet. Nails
installed to hold siding in place do not count towards the required minimums.
Laminated girders and headers shall have all joints located over a load bearing
point such as a post, pier or wall. Check your codebook for acceptable locations
for holes and notches in framing members. Manufactured framing materials must
be installed per Mfr Installation Instructions. Girder trusses have specific
nailing requirements that the Mfr will send along with the trusses. If you
do not receive a copy of these requirements with your trusses ask for it.
LVL's and Glulams can have holes drilled horizontally but these are limited
as to size, location and total number of holes. Check Mfr. Installation Instructions
for details. LVL's cannot have holes drilled vertically. In some cases Glulams
can have vertical holes but the Mfr or an engineer must size the beam large
enough to allow for the hole. If notches are required check with the Mfr or
an engineer. Be prepared to justify any modifications to these manufactured
beams. Before calling for a Framing Inspection be sure all trade work; plumbing,
electric, HVAC, has been roughed-in.
- DECKS: Joist hangers are needed
on both ends of the joists whenever they butt up against a beam or header.
Do not use roofing, siding, sheetrock or other unapproved nails or screws
in joist hangers. Check the Mfr's Installation Book for nailing options. When
the outer band is to be used as a header, spans greater than 48" between
supports will need to be doubled. For header spans greater than this check
readily available span charts. Through bolts or lag screws with a minimum
1/2" diameter should be used to attach the deck to the house. For joists
spans up to 10 ft, one bolt 24" on center. From 10 - 15 ft, 16"
on center. From 15 - 20 ft, 12" on center. Beyond this span engineering
will be required. For decks that will hold hot tubs an engineered drawing
will be required based on the weight of the tub and potential load of people.
Any deck 30" or more off the ground will require guardrails and handrails.
Minimum guardrail height is 36", handrail height is 34" - 38".
Baluster, sometimes called pickets, spacing is a maximum of 4" between
each baluster. Handrails, both interior and exterior, shall have there ends
return to a wall or end in a Newell post and shall be continuous the entire
length of the stairs. Flashing will be needed on decks attached to houses.
If a deck or steps are not installed at the time of the Final Inspection a
guard will need to be installed at the door to keep anyone from falling out
of the door. Decks not approved for HOT TUBS will be noted on the Use &
Occupancy Permit.
- WINDOWS: At least one egress window
will be required for each sleeping area if a door is not available. Each egress
window must meet a minimum size opening in the normal operation of the window.
Tilt sash windows will not meet the minimum openings unless they meet the
following requirements. Grade floor windows can be 5 sq ft (720 sq in) only
if the maximum height from the finished floor to the finished sill or from
the finished grade outside to the finished sill is no more than 44".
If a window is more than 44" from the finished grade to the finished
sill a larger 5.7 (820 sq in) window will be needed. In most cases it is better
to get the larger size window. Windows close to the floor may sometimes need
tempered glass. The majority of windows installed above a tub need tempered
glass. Check your codebooks or other info. available from this office for
more details. If a finish trim is installed that extends beyond the siding
or the flange of a window such as a 1 x 4, then a Z flashing will be needed
to keep water from going down behind the trim. If a window well is used it
must have a minimum floor area of 9 sq. ft. with a minimum projection and
width of 36". If a casement window is used the 36" width would be
measured from the window in the fully open position over to the edge of the
window well. If the window well is more than 44" deep a ladder or steps
shall be provided for the full height of the window well. (See additional
info: Egress Window Sizing & Tempered Glass
location requirements.)
- GARAGES: Any attached garages
must be fully separated from the house with 5/8" Type X fire rated drywall.
Doors shall be solid wood, honeycomb or solid steel not less than 1 3/8"
thick or 20 minute fire-rated. Any ductwork penetrating the walls or ceilings
shall be a minimum 26 gauge sheet steel or other approved materials. A floor
height separation of 4" is required between the house and garage with
the garage floor being lower than the house floor. For openings to the basement
from the garage a minimum 4" tall curb will be needed around the stairwell.
Any heating and cooling appliances located in a garage shall be protected
from impact. Appliances that generated a glow, spark or flame capable of igniting
gasoline vapors shall be installed with burners, burner ignition devices or
heating elements and switches at least 18" above the floor. If a set
of pull down stairs is desired in the garage then the attic area will need
to have a firewall installed to separate the house and garage. The same 5/8"
Type X drywall will be needed for this firewall.
- RAFTER TIES: Whenever a roof
is constructed with rafters and a load carrying ridge is not installed then
rafter ties will be needed. They shall be placed in the lower third of the
overall height from the perimeter walls to the ridge. A tie will be needed
every 48".
- FIREPLACES: Any fireplace with
the potential to burn solid fuel will need an outside air source with a minimum
6 sq in opening and a maximum of 55 sq in. Hearth extensions shall be built
to be self-supporting and independent of the floor framing. When the firebox
opening is 6 sq ft or less the hearth shall extend outwards a minimum 16"
and to the sides 8". If the firebox is larger than 6 sq ft the hearth
shall extend outwards 20" and 12" to the sides. An airspace of 2"
is needed around fireplaces and chimneys and 4" to the rear of the firebox.
The minimum wall thickness shall be 8" of solid masonry or hollow units
fully grouted. Do not use hollow block only. Combustibles may be in contact
with the area around the firebox if the walls are a minimum 12" of solid
masonry. When laying up liners use fire clay or refractory cement and tight
joints. Firebrick should not have more than a 1/4" thick joint. Chimneys
must extend 24" taller than any obstruction within a 10 ft. radius.
- GAS FIRED APPLIANCES: All gas-fired
appliances shall have shut off valves. For the proper location consult your
codebook, sections G2419.5 and G2419.5.1.
- INSULATION: Ceilings, R38; Walls,
R19; Floors, R21. The kraft paper on insulation cannot be left exposed because
of its flammability in any application.